Plumbing advice - temporary repair? [Archive]

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Chris

04-04-2011, 12:32

I have had a steadily worsening problem with pressure loss from my central heating system. This morning, while giving the boiler a good clean, I accidentally found the source of it ... ironically in the very last place I would have looked, once I got round to actually trying to track it down.

The leak is coming from one of the two isolator valves on the wall behind the boiler (which is a wood pellet stove, not that that makes any difference ... it heats water for radiators just as a gas boiler does). I've taken a few photos to illustrate.

The water is dripping below the nut that seems to hold the assembly together. I'm thinking that resolving the issue permanently may "simply" be a case of replacing a washer, although I am not familiar with these valves so I don't know. I'm assuming the whole system will have to be drained down, whatever the solution is.

I have a couple of questions for now:

1. What, if anything, can I do right now to slow the leak, without damaging the valve and making the eventual permanent fix more difficult and costly?

2. What is the permanent solution? A washer, or an entirely new valve assembly?

TIA. :)

Lord Nikon

04-04-2011, 12:55

That's a 1/4 turn valve, since it's leaking at the handle point the only choice is to replace it. get some arctic spray, freeze the pipe in front and behind, change the valve.

Graham M

04-04-2011, 12:58

Surely being under pressure that's going to end badly, I'd personally just drain the system down?

raging bull

04-04-2011, 12:58

What you have got there is a 1/4 turn ball valve. (no washer sorry)
The item is not repairable, new valve required.

Chris

04-04-2011, 13:02

OK .... so if a new valve is in order, what if anything can I do in the meantime to slow the leak down, if not actually stop it?

Taf

04-04-2011, 13:22

Epoxy leak repair putty over the leaking area will be a decent stopgap if the leak is not too great.

Remove the handle first to make it easier to get a good seal.

Don't put it near the end nuts though as that will make it difficult to replace!

---------- Post added at 13:22 ---------- Previous post was at 13:20 ----------

http://cdn.dealclick.co.uk/ukimgs/image/398290.jpg

Mick Fisher

04-04-2011, 13:30

Dunno if this will work but as a temp repair might be worthwhile investigating.

Turn the valve OFF.
Remove the handle and the nut underneath to reveal the shaft.

Get some soft string, wool yarn or hemp and smother it with grease. Silicone grease if you have any.
Now wrap it round the shaft so that when you replace the nut the greased string is compressed to fill the space around the shaft.
You may have to fiddle about to get the right amount of string in there.

Reassemble the handle and securing nut
Turn the valve back on.

As with anything like this, if you don't feel competant get somebody in who is.

pabscars

04-04-2011, 13:48

A little rubber o-ring or two placed behind the handle and washers might serve as a temporary repair, until you can plan for a replacement to be fitted.

budwieser

04-04-2011, 18:20

Here you go Chris, A choice!
http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-valve-red-15mm/21289

martyh

04-04-2011, 18:38

It does look like a new valve is needed ,i can see a couple of leaks in the pics ,i would get one anyway they don't cost that much and since you will have to drain the system even for a temp repair it makes sense to replace it while it is removed and the system drained .When the new one is installed .
Will you be replacing it or will you get a plummer in ?
Is it copper or black pvc pipe?

Chris

04-04-2011, 18:48

The pipe is copper but sprayed with stove blackener so it matches the stove and flue pipe better. If it's anything more complex than changing a washer I'll get a plumber ... I know someone in the trade, he is semi-retired but this sounds like a simple job for someone in the know so hopefully I can get him to do it.

martyh

04-04-2011, 18:55