View Full Version : I've lost the will to live...
OK, I'll be brief. I've spent the last 4 days on the phone to Virgin Media Customer Support, to no avail.
Here's my problem (one which I have had on 3 other occasions since I joined VM in November 2008, and which on each occasion has been resolved by sending me a new modem, until now):
CORRUPT DATA. Major problems with streaming videos, downloads, and any compressed files on my laptop (wireless), PC (wired), Xbox 350 (wired) PS3 (wired) and Wii (wireless).
'Suggestions' to fix it from VM 'telephone support' staff include:
Upgrade your Flash version (on my Xbox?)
Run an anti-malware program (on my Wii?)
Turn off the phishing filter (WTF?)
Etc
I've also just been told by one of these people that there is nothing wrong with my equipment or the service, it's a problem with... wait for it... "Your network". What network?
My consoles and computers are connected to the router, yes, but not networked, and this problem persists when only one is in use or only one is connected to the router.
"There is a corrupt file on your network and that is affecting your computers and consoles". I beg your pardon? :dozey:
Does the problem resolve when I connect the computer/console directly to the modem? I've lost the will to find out, but the other 3 times this happened, yes, it did.
So, surprisingly, I checked the version on Flash on my laptop, it was up-to-date, but this did not resolve the problem across all platforms.
I've done the reset this, reboot that, and still no luck.
If anyone, ANYONE can help me resolve this, it just might make me stick with VM a little longer (until it happens again).
I just tried to cancel my contract, and was told that the "Try to talk you out of it Dept." was closed until tomorrow.
Help me, PLEASE!
Thanks.
Jay
Turkey Machine
01-07-2010, 21:48
Right, standard fare I reckon.
If you're on cable, post the modem stats from http://root:root@192.168.100.1 taking care to remove the Cable Modem MAC address completely. This will allow us to quickly determine if it's a cable network fault.
Also double-check the coax going into the back of the modem and from the wall mounting is tight.
Thanks, yes cable is nice and tight.
I've tried disabling the SPI firewall, and the modem is new.
Nothing has been changed or modified in any way, it's just started happening, as it has previously.
Here goes:
Cable Modem : Euro-DOCSIS 1.0/1.1/2.0 Compliant
MAC Address
Serial Number : XXXXXXXXXXX
Boot Code Version : 1.1.2c
Software Version : 2.111.1002
Hardware Version : 1.9
Acquire a Downstream Channel 298750000 Hz Locked
Connectivity State OK Operational
Boot State OK Operational
Downstream Lock : Locked
Downstream Channel Id : 41
Downstream Frequency : 298750000 Hz
Downstream Modulation : QAM256
Downstream Symbol Rate : 6952 Ksym/sec
Downstream Interleave Depth : taps12Increment17
Downstream Receive Power Level : 13.0 dBmV
Downstream SNR : 42.5 dB
Upstream Lock : Locked
Upstream Channel ID : 3
Upstream Frequency : 45800000 Hz
Upstream Modulation : QAM16
Upstream Symbol Rate : 2560 Ksym/sec
Upstream transmit Power Level : 40.0 dBmV
Upstream Mini-Slot Size : 2
Modulation Type QPSK QPSK QPSK 16QAM 16QAM
Differential Encoding Off Off Off Off Off
Preamble Length 64 128 128 144 160
Preamble Value Offset 140 6 6 216 216
FEC Error Correction (T) 0 5 5 5 10
FEC Codeword Information Bytes (k) 16 34 34 78 235
Scrambler Seed 338 338 338 338 338
Maximum Burst Size 2 0 0 8 0
Guard Time Size 8 48 48 8 8
Last Codeword Length Fixed Fixed Fixed Short Short
Scrambler on/off On On On On On
Network Access : Allowed
Maximum Downstream Data Rate : 20480000
Maximum Upstream Data Rate : 768000
Maximum Upstream Channel Burst : 3044
Maximum Number of CPEs : 1
Modem Capability : Concatenation Enabled, Fragametation Enabled, PHS Enabled
Thanks again.
The Downstream level is at +13dB, this is to high, ideally around -4 to +7dB,
This is giving the SNR level a false reading as well. Upstream level at 40dB is good but will change when downstream level is adjusted.
So first impression is the levels need sorting.
Delete the serial Number now!!!!!!
Ignitionnet
01-07-2010, 22:34
Downstream Receive Power Level : 13.0 dBmV
Too high, but an easy enough fix if you can get through to someone in support who has something like a clue what they are doing. Engineer visit or a couple of quid part from Maplins.
Can I remind members NOT to post serial numbers or MACs for a cable modem within a thread. Can I also remind members noticing such indescretions to report the post instead of PM'ing a single mod who may be just off to be and only by chance saw the PM ;)
Can I remind members NOT to post serial numbers or MACs for a cable modem within a thread. Can I also remind members noticing such indescretions to report the post instead of PM'ing a single mod who may be just off to be and only by chance saw the PM ;)
Wasn't aware of a reporting avenue, will look to educate myself on it. Was just doing my bit. Honest
Education completed Ma'am
Wasn't aware of a reporting avenue, will look to educate myself on it. Was just doing my bit. Honest
Education completed Ma'am
Use the Red triangle it is the best bet if you want to report a post, works for me.;)
Use the Red triangle it is the best bet if you want to report a post, works for me.;)
Yeah, I just remembered, hence the,"Education complete...
moaningmags
01-07-2010, 23:42
Does the problem resolve when I connect the computer/console directly to the modem? I've lost the will to find out, but the other 3 times this happened, yes, it did.
You removed the router and connected directly to the modem and the issue was resolved?
broadbandking
02-07-2010, 07:09
You removed the router and connected directly to the modem and the issue was resolved?
I was thinking that.
The Downstream level is at +13dB, this is to high, ideally around -4 to +7dB,
This is giving the SNR level a false reading as well. Upstream level at 40dB is good but will change when downstream level is adjusted.
So first impression is the levels need sorting.
Delete the serial Number now!!!!!!
Not if a 10db forward path attenuator is used
Thanks, fellas.
(Re: serial number - whoops!)
Er, yes, in the past when I've connected a computer/console directly to the modem, it's worked (after rebotting the modem, of course), but connect to the router and it's back to square one.
I must stress that I've probably had 99% perfect service, only one 'outage' that I'm aware of, and then the 3 (or is it 4 now) times I've had this problem with corrupted data.
Every time, no help whatsoever from telephone support.
Mmm... just spoken to the 'cancel your contract dept' and an engineer is coming round in the next 2 hours to fix it. Very efficient, and GREAT if he does! I'll keep you posted.
Cheers
Can I suggest...
Router at fault? :confused:
Or am I loosing my marbles far too early....
Can I suggest...
Router at fault? :confused:
Or am I loosing my marbles far too early....
Maybe not.
Today, the engineer came round as promised and spent an hour here. He said he's never seen anything like this before.
Twiddled with the cab, added an attenuator, tried yet ANOTHER modem.
A lot of head scratching, and then said I would have to call 'technical support'.
Which I did. I ended up speaking to somebody whom I could not understand, and who could not understand me. The advice I was given this time was... here we go... "Change your wireless to channel 11, as we have sped up your modem". :dozey::dozey:
Er, right. That really makes sense, doesn't it.
So another call to 'cancel my subscription' resulted in another techie who, SHOCK HORROR actually UNDERSTOOD my problem (after a while) and genuinely tried to help. Good fella.
The result? It's still not working, though, as Matt said above, it now seems to be a problem with the router.
I now have to await a replacement router and "hope it's a D-Link one".
Er, so if it's NOT a D-Link one, I'm probably going to be stuck with the same problem.
Can someone from VM please tell me how I can ENSURE it's a D-Link router, or, alternatively, tell me what I'm supposed to do if it's not.
Thanks again.
RainmakerRaw
03-07-2010, 00:25
It sounds like you can pretty much be 110% certain a new router will fix this. You'll get whatever the engineer has on the van, but that's usually the D-Link now afaik. TBH you'd be doing yourself a favour by just buying a decent router and having done. None of the VM supplied routers are very good (no offence).
General Maximus
03-07-2010, 16:07
it sounds like the problem lies within the router but you need to distinguish whether the router is actually faulty or if it is a settings problem. If it is a default settings problem then yes, the same router again will cause the same problem. If the router has actually had it you dont need a different brand, you can just have the same router again.
Tbh I dont think you have helped yourself out here dude. You have caused yourself a great deal of stress and wasted time getting techs to come out and replacing modems and bits when you knew the problem went away when the devices are connected directly to the modem, meaning the problem lied with the router and all you have done is dragged things out.
it sounds like the problem lies within the router but you need to distinguish whether the router is actually faulty or if it is a settings problem. If it is a default settings problem then yes, the same router again will cause the same problem. If the router has actually had it you dont need a different brand, you can just have the same router again.
Tbh I dont think you have helped yourself out here dude. You have caused yourself a great deal of stress and wasted time getting techs to come out and replacing modems and bits when you knew the problem went away when the devices are connected directly to the modem, meaning the problem lied with the router and all you have done is dragged things out.
I told customer support the first time (and the 2nd time, 3rd time, etc) that the problem resolved when the devices were connected directly to the modem, however after sending a new router the first time, they have not done since and have instead replaced the modem, saying the router is fine and that the problem lies with the modem not working correctly with the router.
My understanding was that the engineer coming out would fix the problem, not give me yet another modem. Maybe I should just have bypassed customer support altogether and come on here.
I wonder how many long suffering VM customers don't realise that they can get help here and on the newsgroups?
Back to the router, and in particular just buying one myself, can anyone recommend a good one, please? Thanks.
General Maximus
04-07-2010, 20:24
I strongly recommend linksys. The wrt54g if you are on 20mbit and the wrt150n if you are on 50mbit. Although I have never tried connecting consoles to my router, i have had may pcs and laptops connected wired and wirelessly and i have never had any probs
Well, the replacement router arrived... it's a Netgear 'Wireless-N 300'.
And guess what? My data is still corrupt.
Back to BT (and 5.5Meg from 20Meg) for me.
---------- Post added at 18:08 ---------- Previous post was at 17:51 ----------
Now this is interesting...
Downstream Receive Power Level : 19.5 dBmV
What the hell is going on? Can somebody from VM please help me?!?!
You will need a technician if your Downstream power is as high as 19.5.
You will need a technician if your Downstream power is as high as 19.5.
I've had one come out already. He left me a 6dB attenuator. I've already got a 10dB one.
Using either (or both) of these brings the power down, but does not resolve the problem.
Another technician is coming out today. I really hope he fixes it, because I really, REALLY do not want to go back to BT.
I have had problems before with "weird" issues on virgin media connections and it's nearly always the cheap routers provided. Not sure if it's a combination with line issues and cheap routers that cause the problem but replacing the router with something at a more "corporate" level seems to resolve the issues.
If you know someone with a better router see if you can borrow it to prove your point.
I've had one come out already. He left me a 6dB attenuator. I've already got a 10dB one.
Using either (or both) of these brings the power down, but does not resolve the problem.
Another technician is coming out today. I really hope he fixes it, because I really, REALLY do not want to go back to BT.
The Service Tech who comes around SHOULD be able to see if the levels at the cabinet are incorrect, now it's either a problem in the network or your installation but it's hard to tell either way at the moment due to the levels fluctuating so much. Just putting these devices on is obviously not helping your problems, they obviously do not understand the levels and what the output at the cabinets tap banks are!
Until you get someone who actually knows what he is doing you will continue to suffer, start demanding that the Principle Technician gets involved in this one, if they identify a Network issue this will be passed to the Networks Engineers.
Have you tried these forums:
http://community.virginmedia.com/
Techs do not deal with wireless problems im afraid. If when you connect straight to the modem the problem disapears then there isnt much a tech can do.
Yes the signal levels are really high but this isnt the problem if it goes away when you remove the wireless router.
Techs do not deal with wireless problems im afraid. If when you connect straight to the modem the problem disapears then there isnt much a tech can do.
Yes the signal levels are really high but this isnt the problem if it goes away when you remove the wireless router.
Agreed the signal levels aren't THE problem he is experiencing but this will cause others issues.
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