Euro lock replacement

Taf · 23-02-2011, 11:05

An old dear near us has a sticky euro lock on her front door. It's out of warranty, so I said I'd swap it as it's only a 30 second job... usually.

The screw that holds the lock in place just won't budge, and I'm afraid to use too much force in case I ruin the screw head.

I've never had one as tight as this in the dozens I've swapped... but then I noticed something..... a circle of tiny holes around the screw head. It's the only screw location with them on the whole door.

A security feature perhaps?

martyh · 23-02-2011, 14:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taf

An old dear near us has a sticky euro lock on her front door. It's out of warranty, so I said I'd swap it as it's only a 30 second job... usually.

The screw that holds the lock in place just won't budge, and I'm afraid to use too much force in case I ruin the screw head.

I've never had one as tight as this in the dozens I've swapped... but then I noticed something..... a circle of tiny holes around the screw head. It's the only screw location with them on the whole door.

A security feature perhaps?

just to clarify ,it is just the barrel you are changing and you cannot get the screw undone that holds the barrel in place . what i normally do is take a correctly fitting screw driver as the heads are soft and will strip if you use the wrong one (usually PZ 2) with the screw driver in position take a hammer and tap the end of the screw driver repetedly at the same time as turning this usually shocks the screw lose ,best to use as long a screw driver that you can find as you get more torc on the head

hope this helps

Taf · 23-02-2011, 15:27

Yup, that's what I'm up to Martyh.

The "impact driver" method you describe hasn't helped either.

I get a funny feeling threadlock (or superglue) has been used, or those tiny holes have some locking action.

pabscars · 23-02-2011, 15:45

Instead of using the screw driver which can absorb some of the shock, try using the flat head part of the hammer to hit the screw dead on without damaging the head, or use a brass drift or a large pin punch.

This should give it the shock it needs to break the bond, don't be afraid of giving it a good whack either, but start of light and build up.

Obviously taking care not to damage the head or edge of the screw

Taf · 23-02-2011, 16:03

She's out at the moment, will try giving it a bit more wellie when she gets back.

heero_yuy · 23-02-2011, 19:38

A pukka impact driver might do the job:

Wiki

I have to use one of these to get the screw(s) undone on the rear brake drums of my Metty.

You wallop this with a hammer after biasing it in the direction you want to go.

Lord Nikon · 26-02-2011, 11:05

There is another option, as it is sometimes used as a method of breaking and entering I'll pm it to you.

Taf · 26-02-2011, 11:06

I used a big sharp nail and a hammer to shock the thread... but it took a lot more than I expected to finally crack it.

Screw now out, lock barrel changed, neighbour happy!

And there was evidence of threadlock having been used.... Loctite 243 I reckon.... obviously to generate cash for when the barrel needed changing at some point.

Thanks for all the hints!!