Whats the best way to 'run in' an engine?

Ramrod · 27-01-2010, 12:45

It's 2.5L turbo Volvo lump.
Volvo say that no running in is required. Apparently the handbook says to go easy for the first few hundred miles (which is what I would normally do) but there is a train of thought that says to thrash it for the first 30 odd miles to help with sealing the piston rings evenly.......this will produce a cleaner burning, more powerful engine. So I'm at a loss as to what to do for the best. Anyone here have any sage words of advice

link

**Chris** · 27-01-2010, 12:48

My only thoughts on 'running in' a new engine are a memory of being in the back of my dad's new car - a Y-reg Rover 3500SE - when it hit the magical run-in total of 2,000 miles. And when I pointed that out to him, he decided to celebrate by stamping on the accelerator and streaking northwards up the M6 at speeds that would turn your hair white.

Pauls9 · 27-01-2010, 12:49

I've never heard of thrashing an engine from new. I'd have thought that was a recipe for disaster. If you're concerned, I'd suggest taking it easy for the first 100 to 500 miles. That'll help the tyres and brakes settle in too.

**Kymmy** · 27-01-2010, 12:55

Just keep it to mid range revs (no over revving) You'll probably find that the rings were pre-bed in the factory (normally done with a mineral oil before switching over the semi/full synth)

Once it's upto about 500 miles then just increase the maximum revs by 1k every week until you've got it to the full range

Ramrod · 27-01-2010, 13:08

Thats the standard advice......but the alternative method is intriguing....

**Kymmy** · 27-01-2010, 13:11

I totally agree that it's gonna increase engine output...but with a greatly reduced engine life. It's a road vehicle not something that you're gonna take on a track

Ramrod · 27-01-2010, 15:03

Why would 'ragging it' carefully for the first 30 miles reduce the engine life?

cuggle · 27-01-2010, 15:17

I thought the old cars needed running in but nowadays this isn't needed AFAIK

**Kymmy** · 27-01-2010, 15:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ramrod

Why would 'ragging it' carefully for the first 30 miles reduce the engine life?

I think you answered your own question.. No such thing as ragging it carefully!!!

27-01-2010, 19:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ramrod

It's 2.5L turbo Volvo lump.
Volvo say that no running in is required. Apparently the handbook says to go easy for the first few hundred miles (which is what I would normally do) but there is a train of thought that says to thrash it for the first 30 odd miles to help with sealing the piston rings evenly.......this will produce a cleaner burning, more powerful engine. So I'm at a loss as to what to do for the best. Anyone here have any sage words of advice

link

They usually say got steady until 1000 then go for your life, it's just to losen the engine off.

Taf · 27-01-2010, 19:38

The first oil change is an eye-opener... dredge through it with a magnet and see what you find...

**Rob** · 27-01-2010, 20:03

It is not just the engine to consider. As mentioned elsewhere you'll also get better longevity out of things like tyres and brakes if you let them bed in gently too.

With modern oils, especially the synthetic mineral ones the engine's are far more tolerant. That combined with better manufacturing has reduced the need for traditional running in. Indeed it's also lead to the extended service intervals now possible. Even so pushing to the full period of extended services, especially depended on types of driving such as lots of short distance stuff, might not be a good idea.

Ramrod · 27-01-2010, 20:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kymmy

I think you answered your own question.. No such thing as ragging it carefully!!!

Nope, read the article I linked to

**Kymmy** · 27-01-2010, 20:15

It's not the engine that's more tolerant but actually the oils themselves. Mineral oil breaks down more at high temps than synthetic oil, so it protects better under pressure than mineral oil. Which is why most people recommend you run in a car/bike using mineral oil as it allows the engine to be bed in at a more gentler power/speed.

We do this quite often when we rebuild engines for customers and also on our own builds (yamaha inline twins and also v8 3.5 rovers)

---------- Post added at 20:15 ---------- Previous post was at 20:12 ----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ramrod

Nope, read the article I linked to

I did before I posted what I did and it didn't change my mind, but then again my partner is an ex-motorsport tech (WRC prodrive and MLP) hence we're both directors of our own motorsport company and they totally agree with what I typed

(they do the engine/chassis/running gear and I do the electronics/engine management/comms/tracking/telemetry). The article is very much what a motorsport mech would do as the mentality is use and abuse then sell on

Ramrod · 27-01-2010, 20:27

But what do they say about using controlled specific high revs to seal the piston rings? Is the theory sound and if it is does it work in practice?